Extant Textiles

Warp: 37 cm undyed s-spun wool

Weft 35.5 cm s-spun wool and s-spun cotton

Diameter of Roundel approximately 16 cm

Pattern: rows of pearl roundels encircling long legged birds, the pearl roundels are defined by outlines and there are small outlined pearl roundels at the joins of each roundel.

The Textile Museum, DC 73.341 and 73.555

Royal Hunter

Period: 
7th C
8th C
Culture: 
Sasanid

Warp 27 cm proposed roundel diameter 52 cm undyed s-spun wool

Weft 20 cm undyed and red s-spun wool and s-spun cotton

Pearl roundel encircling confronted cocks and a central tree

Textile Museum DC 73.554

Royal Hunter

Period: 
7th C
8th C
Culture: 
Sasanid

Warp 38 cm undyed s-spun wool

Weft 18 cm s-spun wool & s- spun cotton red and white

Pearl Roundel encircling long legged birds and a central tree motif.

The Textile Museum, DC

Royal Hunter

Period: 
7th C
8th C
Culture: 
Sasanid

Excavated in Antinoe, Egypt

Warp 12.5 cm silk

Weft 17 cm silk

white ground with dark blue and brown pattern.

Pattern: Joined pearl roundels enclosing winged horses, floral motif filling the negative space between roundels.

 

Musuee de Louvre Section Copte Gu. 1138

Royal Hunter

Period: 
7th C
Culture: 
Sasanid

Royal Hunter #55

Warp 37.5 cm  undyed s-spun wool

Weft 27 cm two s-spun, z- plied wool

Tapestry weave, slit and dovetailed

Red ground motif in yellow green, dark blue, light luue, pink, white, and brown.

Partial piece, the entire motif is not present, mountain goat with horns, amd a pearl collar, flowers surround the goat, other impartial motifs appear in the textile, this may be a pear roundel, but not enough survives to be sure.

Yale University Art Gallery 1937.4604

Period: 
6th C
7th C
8th C
Culture: 
Persian
Sasanid

Syria- Dura-Europa

Tapestry weave with slits

warp undyed loosely s spun wool

weft loosely s spun wool in white, 2 shades of blue, three shades of red

Pattern Description: Alternating decorative stripes and stripes of shading. The decorative stripes are a classic wave pattern, pick and pick background and white,  what appears to be very primitave flowers, then pick and pick, and another wave stripe.

 

Textile held in Yale University Art Gallery 1933.488 was on loan to The Textile Museum, D.C.

Source: Royal Hunter

Period: 
3rd C
Culture: 
Sasanid

This textile was found amoung many others by Gayet in 1897. They were found in Antinoe, Egypt. Gayet and textile historians attribute this textile to Sasanian weavers.

The textile fragment measures 11 cm long and 37 cm wide. The textile is comprised of alternating rows of patterns. Each pattern row alternates two pattern motifs. The motifs are stacked on top of each other, in the rows. The two pattern rows are:

1) A flower with four petals (the flower also has four straight lines forming a diagonal in a box oulined in the background color and then outlined again in the pattern color, the final box outline ends in a line with a fleur de lis top) and a fleury cross with a circle of background color in a circle outline. The pattern, as photographed in Hoskins, appears to have half a flower desin at the selvedges. This would indicate a point threading that continues all the way to the selvedge.

 

2) 8 petaled flower in an open lotus configuration in a star outline and the same flower motif from the previous row. The 8 petal flower motif is reminiscent of an open lotus design, but very linear in nature.

 There are 11.5 designs repeating in the width, which means including the space between designs, each design is approximately 3.2 cm wide. There are 4, plus a bit rows in the height of the material. which gives and estimate of 2.75 cm per pattern. I currently only have access to a photo of this fabric in Hoskins (2002). I have measured the patterns in the photo, which do appear to actually be square. I would therefore estimate the patterns in the original to be 2.75cm in both hieght and width.

Musee Historique des Tissus, lyon France Museum number 28.519/4 (907.111.5)

Hoskins. N.A. (2002). Weft Faced Pattern We4aves: Tabby to Taquete. Valley Fibers Corporation. MA

Period: 
5th C
6th C
7th C
Culture: 
Sasanid

Syria from Dura-Europos

Measurements warp 22.9 cm, weft 33 cm

Warp s pun wool

weft both s and z spun wool

uses slit tapestry weave technique, the ground is green with red, three shades of pink, three shades of beige, and blue. The pattern is staggered 4 petal rosettes.

Yale University AFt Gallery (1933.487) was on loan to Textile Museum, D.C.

Harper, P. (1978) The Royal Hunter. Asia House Gallery, NY.

Period: 
3rd C
Culture: 
Sasanid

This Duck samitum is held at the Cleveland Museum of Art. The piece is listed as measuring 3.25" x 4.45", which is quite small. Unfortunately, the museum does not list any information regarding the warp and weft or the twist direction of the threads. 

The cloth features ducks encircled in floral roundels. and bands of a floral motif above the roundels. This is a slightly different design style than I have seen in other Sasanian textiles. It seems to combine elements from the tapestry designs with a unique floral roundel

Please see the link to the museum information to view the textile.

Period: 
7th C
Culture: 
Sasanid
Museum Rereference Number: 
1951.88

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