Extant Textiles

"St. Knut's Cover"

Pattern Unit: 65 cm wide by 82 cm high

Textile fragment: 133 cm wide x 110 cm high

Twill direction: S

This textile is elieve to be present by Knut's wido, Queen Ethele to cover his shrine. The cover is still in Knut's shrine in Odense Cathedral, Denmark. The cloth has an Eagle, head facing right in a desries of roundel with touch each other. There is another patterned roundel at each point where 2 roundels meet. In the space between roundels is another round patterned figure.

Birds Samitum

Number 36 is also woven on cotton ground with wool wefts. Number 36 is not one continuous cloth, but both fragments depicts birds with curved necks. This samitum is reversible. The birds are not exact replicas, which suggests that they are either actually separate textiles, or the motifs were woven in separate parts of the fabric. The birds may be herson and are standing on curled twigs holding palmette branches in theri beaks.The herons are in a large "beaded" roundel.

Birds Samitum 2

This is a reversible samitum aldo depciting birds. This design shows a procession of a pigeon, druch, peacock and good in brown and white silks. There is also a landscape in this finely woven samitum.

Brocaded Sphinexes

Attributed to late 11th-early 12th C Hispano-Moresque or BaghdadThis textile is now mostly a roundel shpaed, but was part of a larger cloth the roundel encirciling two spinxes facing each other is exquisite in and of itself! The decoration within the roundel is difficul to adequetelyl describe and is better viewed.

Burse Panel

The Clothworker’s Centre has also undertaken the conservation of a panel of a burse, cloth container for transporting religious items. This particular piece was last listed as on display in the Victoria and Albert Medieval and Renaissance Gallery. The cloth was made of cut velvet and was also embroidered. The woven cloth was attributed to Italian weavers and the embroidery to English artists. The burse was dated to 1320-1340 AD. The cloth measured 10 inches tall by 11 inches wide the warp was roughly 35 epi.

Textile Image: 

Byzantine Samitum

This samitum cloth dated to the 9th Century is Byzantine. It is one repeat of a large design that likely covered the entire cloth. The repeat of the design measured 75 cm by 725 cm (34” by 329.5”). The design is that of human figures over three horses and enclosed in a roundel  with heart shaped lotus blossoms. The design is woven in yellow on a blue ground. 

Child's wool sock

Wild noted a characterstic of Roman diamond twills he studies were a higher sett than ppi. Wild also noted pattern units were often 10 warp ends and 9 picks.The sock is picutred in Illustration 2.12 pg. 88 2/2 diamond twill from Vindolanda Roman fort, Northumberland. The sock measured 16 cm in length. the sock is a similar shap to a simple boot.