Samite from Antinoe

Submitted by Jahanara on Sun, 08/01/2021 - 12:02
Time Period
5th C AD
Weave Structure
Warp
Fine Z spun silk
Weft
silk
Notes

Sett: 25-28 epc

Weft: 55-82 epcm

 

Becker also included a Sasanid samitum silk, which he stated was cautiously dated to the 5th Century. A fine Z twisted silk was used for the warp. (Becker, 1987). The warp was sett at 50-56 epcm (125-140 epi) (with 25-28 epcm/63-71 epi in the binding structure) and 55-82 ppcm (140-208 ppi) in the weft (Becker, 1987). The variation in warp sett was cited as evidence that looms of this era did not utilize a reed (Becker, 1987). The variation in ppcm was noted as a function of which color (and therefore thread) was being used in the design.

The pattern unit was 85 warp ends. The uits are from 3.3-3.8 cm. The pattern seems to have been threaded on a point. Becker noted that weavers could enlarge a pattern by using double or tripled warp ends instead of the single warp ends employed in this cloth. It must be noted that if you take this too far you will "pixelate" your design.

The University Mseum for Egyptolog Uppsala Sweden