Extant Textiles

Peacock samitum

"On a rose-tan ground horizontal rows of roundels with confronted peacocks in green, rose-tan, and brown" inbetween these roundels are smaller roundels encasulating eight-pointed stars.

Peacocks and sphinxes taquete

This piece shows a new variation on the typical roundel style samitums of the earlier periods. Two peacocks face each other with tails raised. The shape of the peacock raised tails is followed by a curved line followed by two bands of script and another outline. between tehse designs are paris fo sphinxes.The piece measures 9" square and shows two full across repeats, two repeats vertically and one nearly complete repeat of the design.

Plants in samitum

Tjhe piece uses roudels which do ot touch and contain a lotus tree within a palmette frame. The design was done in rose and light yellowish tan. The remainin piece consisted of six nearly complete roundels and measure 13" x 23.75"

Roman Burial Pillow 1

This pillow was one of 3 found in a burial at Anitone. The original is now housed at the Musuee Historique des Tissus. The pillows were dated to the 3rd C AD from the unique burial methods used (Becker).Taquete has been found in Roman digs dated to the First Century AD. The First Century textiles are woven using wool warp and weft, whereas Third Century textiles of these structures used silk thread. However, Wild traced these textiles to Syrian workshops  (Wild a, 2003).

Roman Burial Pillow 2

Becker also discusses another pillow from the Antinoe find now held at the Musee Historique des Tissus. The pattern is a while palmette on a green background. The palmettes have spots in two colours between. The spots alternate between red and yellow.

Roman Burial Pillow 3

This pillow was woven in three color taquete. There were “three dark brown bands with small white motifs, two red bands with rectangles and tree motifs, a green band with a diamond motif, and below these registers a blue field with a beige diamond pattern filled with red and yellow trees” (Hoskins, 2003). This pillow measured 34 cm by 29 cm (15.5” x 13”) (Hoskins, 2003). The final pillow was woven “ on a beige field at the bottom edge and then a large green field with white palmettes design interspersed with red and yellow circles” (Hoskins, 2003).

Roses in tapestry

This tapestry has an all over pattern of quatrefoil roses. The roses are on a green background and are staggered. The petals are shaded fron wite and pint to dar red from the center out.

Samite from Antinoe

Becker also included a Sasanid samitum silk, which he stated was cautiously dated to the 5th Century. A fine Z twisted silk was used for the warp. (Becker, 1987). The warp was sett at 50-56 epcm (125-140 epi) (with 25-28 epcm/63-71 epi in the binding structure) and 55-82 ppcm (140-208 ppi) in the weft (Becker, 1987). The variation in warp sett was cited as evidence that looms of this era did not utilize a reed (Becker, 1987). The variation in ppcm was noted as a function of which color (and therefore thread) was being used in the design.The pattern unit was 85 warp ends.

Shroud from Saint-Sernin

The fragment of the shroud from Saint-Sernin was a silk saumitum cloth woven around the 12th Century by Hispano-Moorish weavers (Musee National du Moyen Age, 2003). The fragment held by the Cluny Museum measured 44 cm by 23 cm. The woven design is that of peacocks facing one another with their tails held up  (Musee National du Moyen Age, 2003).  This cloth closely resemble Sasanian samitums, which often included roundels encircling peacocks and other mythical beasts. 

Silk Lampas

Lampas could be defined as twill weave with a supplementary weft, for brevity’s sake we will leave this here. To the experienced weaver this definition could include any number of weaves which were not lampas. A preemptive example of lampas was this lampas silk from Southeast Spain, the Clothworkers’ Center Catalogue 1312-1864. There were a number of repeated designs incorporated into this cloth. The designs measured as follows; green design 4.5 inches,  blue square design 7 inches by 7 inches, blue round design 7 inches, grey/silver 4.5 inches.

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