MEDATS 2005 Narrowares: Notes

MEDATS Narrow Wares Conference May 2005 Courtauld Institute London Tablet Weaving DVD Walter de Grey Archbishop of York (1188-1255) by Professor Orbet Patterson This DVD is a video taken at a conference held in 1971. The lecture discusses the narrow wares found in Walter de Grey’s tomb. The stole is on display at the Cathedral Museum in York. The stole is a 3” strip and includes the following colors: Red Yellow Cream White Woven using 3 sheds which are produced by turning the cards 1/16th of a turn. The technique uses 2 weft threads which go through the first 2 sheds, 1 weft through bottom and middle, the other weft through top and middle. The weft thread colors used are red, gold and yellow. The red wefts were left slack, while the gold weft is tightened which makes red loops in the weaving. It was discovered the de Grey died suddenly. He was embalmed in Bordeaux wine for the journey back to his parish. Due to the sudden nature of his death his burial was a bit shoddy, the stole is actually a sampler from a craft shop that was cut in half and sewn back together. The sampler was obviously woven by two separate people. The lecturer assumes that there was a master weaver at one end, an apprentice at the other, and a new worker in the middle turning the cards for them both. This assumption is based off the high number of mistakes in the lesser quality end! The lecturer also puts forth that the gold thread is actually what preserved the weaving, because the edges that do not contain gold threads have decayed, but the middles section, which contained gold thread remains in tact today. The tomb also contained some heraldic cushions, which were embroidered with Peacocks, Griffins and an Eagle. Karen Finch Narrow-Wares Methods & Materials This presenter was a lovely, elderly German woman, who brought a lot of resources to view. She spoke briefly on many different topics. My notes are quite brief here, as she was very erratic. From Woven into the Earth During the Medieval period, turn dependent weaves are prevalent in Scandinavia. Whereas threading dependent weaves are predominantly from Asia. Just a note many Brits refer to India as part of Asia, so I’m not sure if she was using our definition of Asia or the British definition of Asia. Suggested Book: To Date Textiles (2002) Oslo Industrial Art Museum. ISNB 91-7844-620-1 Elizabeth Benns 15th C. Braiding Instructions & Archaeological Evidence. Discussion of the British Library Manuscript #2320 Octavo Parchment book Instructions start in folio 52. reproduced in 1974 by EG Stanley. Suggests this manuscript is a copy of earlier manuscript and that there are transcription errors, many directions seem to be missing steps. She discussed the many errors of this manuscript as compared to the Book of Secrets text, which includes instruction for 64 braids. Instructions, attach 1 en d of loops to fixed point and the other end to your fingers. You  create a braid by passing the loops from finger to finger. Twisting the loop while passing changes the end result. Braids of this era can be made of 2, 3, or 5 colors and may require 1-3 people to complete. Archaeological evidence suggests simple braids are most common, however extant evidence shows complex braids were in use for ecclesiastical decoration. Linen is probably the most commonly used thread, but is has not survived due to the unfavorable conditions. The presenter is publishing a book later this year with Gena Barrett, which will study the manuscript and give workable directions. The title is “Take 5 bows Departed: an Examination of a manuscript.” Chrys Plumley English Narrow-Wares: Evidence from Tomb Effigies The was a discussion of Chrys’s interpretation of several tomb effigies. Chyrs has studied the stucco decoration of a variety of effigies throughout Great Britain. 13th C. Cuff and neckline trim w/ jewels, interpreted from the DeLucy Knight 1340s’ at V&A, includes chain mail depicted in stucco Sir Roger & Wife Braid stucco on edge of mantle Her curtle is decorated on the bottom edge 1354 Elizabeth de Montague All over pattern on mantle square encompassing fleur-de-lis, circle encompassing quatre-foil at points of each square interpreted as embroidery on edge of a Cycless surcoat Herford Knight mid 14th C. Gold Fringe at bottom of tunic 1405 Sir Pembridge & wifre- fringe on joupon 1570’s Shrewsbury Abbey Shopshire- hem decoration in intelace pattern 1561 King’s College Library Chapel bands down arm, around arm & on collar, either braid or embroidery, same decoration down front. Herford Cathedral 1566 Braid on puffed sleeve & down front of gown Sommerset 1475- sleeve lacing cord or fingerloop braid, cords fastening mantle. Worchestershire Elming (?) Castle- double row of braid around hem of cape Wife ahs 3 rows of gold braid w/ criss cross knotted fringe Oxfordshire 1606 narrow braids in gold on stomach