700-1000Possibly ByzantineWoven SilkThis piece is woven in a right hand twill. These two fragments are woven with a lion and start motif and probably columns flanking the lions. It is unkown what the figure between the lions origionally looked like, as the textile has been torn in half and this sectioin is missing. Animal motifs are very common in samitum silks from this time.The fragments are believed to have come from a church in the Rhineland and are attributed as Byzantine textiles. Museum curators suggest this peice was to represent Daniel in the lions den.Overall measurements are 7.25” long by 3” wide.The lions measure 4” long by 3” wideThe diamonds are 1” square
Two pieces of samitumThis textile is comprised of 2 pieces of a samite medallion. The motif is a huntsmen with a bow in a scene with a lion or tiger at his horse’s hooves. The scene would have been enclosed in a roundel, as was the style in this time period. This roundel seems to have been comprised of floral motifs. These scenes were quite common in textiles of this era and depict the struggle between good and evil, which plays a central role in the Zoroastrian faith. Samitum was commonly woven in Persia. This piece measures 6.5” x 6”.This samitum is woven in a right hand twill.Similar items 2185-1900, 2185A-1900, 2186-1900, 292-1889, and 817-1903
Dated: 1100-1150This piece of samitum/lampas is woven in 4 colors, Red, gold, black and blue. This appears to be woven in lampas using plain weave and twill. The motif is two peacocks and unicorns facing each other flanked by palm trees.This textile was analyzed in the “Characterization of Late Antique and Early Medieval textile production: Coptic, Sasanian, Byzantin and Spanish Muslim textiles in Spanish national collections” project headed by Dr. Laura Rodriguez Peinado under the Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Department of Art History.The colors were shown to dyed using:Blue indigoCream not detectedRed no information given.This piece measures 12.5” length x 8.25-9.25” wideThe peacock pattern measures 7.5” long xy 8” wideThe large red circles on the tail measure .5” squareI estimate this is sett at 28 epiThis could be woven using a point threading for the pattern blocks.The textiles appears to have only gold warp and both plain weave and right hand twill in the textile. I assume that all other colors that appear are in the weft and it is thus weft faced.Lines of the peacock tail vary in angles from straight across to up and down, then Z TwillYou can see the square of each block close up the smallest circles appear to actually be crosses close up.Maximum of 3 colors appearing at once in the same pass.
900-1300Byzantine, possibly made in Persia/IranThis piece of lampas is woven in silk. The background is olive green with blue and red design blocks. The pattern is two animals, probably lions contained in roundels and repeats across the fabric. The lions have their backs to one another, but heads are tirmed tp face each other.The overall piece is 12.5”-13 long by 7.25” wideThe pattern is 2” squareThe warp is natural/olive colour with blue and red wefts. The twill areas are left hand twill, which seems inconsistent with the attribution to Persian weavers. Although I have not conducted a large sample study of Persian textiles, the ones I have studied thus far I have noted right hand twills only.
Catalogue # T1-1940 Burse Panel http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O15365/panel-from-a-unknown/RegionTime periodStructure cut velvet with embroideryMeasurements 10 inches tall by 11 inches wideWarp (fibre and twist direction) 35 epi roughWeft (fibre and twist direction) Epi:Ppi:DesignGeneral notes the woman's wrap/cloak is embroidered to look like a herringbone weave. The weft has worn away more within the embroidered design. Where you can see the warp it is difficult to tell the difference between the natural coloured warp and the natural coloured fabric it is mounted on.