Silk Lampas

Lampas could be defined as twill weave with a supplementary weft, for brevity’s sake we will leave this here. To the experienced weaver this definition could include any number of weaves which were not lampas. A preemptive example of lampas was this lampas silk from Southeast Spain, the Clothworkers’ Center Catalogue 1312-1864. There were a number of repeated designs incorporated into this cloth. The designs measured as follows; green design 4.5 inches,  blue square design 7 inches by 7 inches, blue round design 7 inches, grey/silver 4.5 inches.

Textile Image: 

Shroud from Saint-Sernin

The fragment of the shroud from Saint-Sernin was a silk saumitum cloth woven around the 12th Century by Hispano-Moorish weavers (Musee National du Moyen Age, 2003). The fragment held by the Cluny Museum measured 44 cm by 23 cm. The woven design is that of peacocks facing one another with their tails held up  (Musee National du Moyen Age, 2003).  This cloth closely resemble Sasanian samitums, which often included roundels encircling peacocks and other mythical beasts. 

Samite from Antinoe

Becker also included a Sasanid samitum silk, which he stated was cautiously dated to the 5th Century. A fine Z twisted silk was used for the warp. (Becker, 1987). The warp was sett at 50-56 epcm (125-140 epi) (with 25-28 epcm/63-71 epi in the binding structure) and 55-82 ppcm (140-208 ppi) in the weft (Becker, 1987). The variation in warp sett was cited as evidence that looms of this era did not utilize a reed (Becker, 1987). The variation in ppcm was noted as a function of which color (and therefore thread) was being used in the design.The pattern unit was 85 warp ends.

Roses in tapestry

This tapestry has an all over pattern of quatrefoil roses. The roses are on a green background and are staggered. The petals are shaded fron wite and pint to dar red from the center out.

Roman Burial Pillow 3

This pillow was woven in three color taquete. There were “three dark brown bands with small white motifs, two red bands with rectangles and tree motifs, a green band with a diamond motif, and below these registers a blue field with a beige diamond pattern filled with red and yellow trees” (Hoskins, 2003). This pillow measured 34 cm by 29 cm (15.5” x 13”) (Hoskins, 2003). The final pillow was woven “ on a beige field at the bottom edge and then a large green field with white palmettes design interspersed with red and yellow circles” (Hoskins, 2003).

Roman Burial Pillow 2

Becker also discusses another pillow from the Antinoe find now held at the Musee Historique des Tissus. The pattern is a while palmette on a green background. The palmettes have spots in two colours between. The spots alternate between red and yellow.

Part of a buskin

Catalog # 1380- 1901, which is part of a buskin. This buskin was found and attributed to England and it’s textile artists. The buskin, a knee- or calf-length boot, is a richly embroidered piece. The author would note the beauty of the embroidery, but would also bring the reader back to the primary concern on this paper, cloth. The cloth was woven as a straight twill and used as a Z twill.  The cloth which remained measured 12 inches high by 9 inches wide. Not much of this cloth remained, which would not be surprising from a cloth boot.  

Textile Image: 

Hunting Scene Taquete

Taquete hunting scene now in the Museum of Decortive Art, CopenhagenBecker notes that these taquete hunting scenes were popular from the 4th-6th Centuries AD. A simlar hunting scene is described in Weibel, Two Thounsand Years of Textiles, which is not included here, because Weibel does not specifiy the technique used.Figures of this taquete are done in undyed wool with a buff coloured background. The border of this textiles has a white pattern on purple background.  This piece measure 26 cm x 48 cm.

Horseman tapestry

It is a shame Weibel does not give this piece more attention, the description here is not nearly as robust as most in this book.It is noted there are identical tapestries in the Victoria & Albert Collection and in Dalton, Byzantine Art.The tapestry measures 3.75" square and depictes a horsemean at the center of a scene with fruits and water birds catching fish. The ground is said to be a pale buish green and the desing executed in red and white.

Gazelles Samitum

A stocking held at the Cluny Museum and attributed to Lucca weavers of the 13th to early 14th Centuries is a silk and gold thread samitum of paired crowned gazelles standing back to back and separated by palmettos  (Musee National du Moyen Age, 2003). This piece is considered a fragment of a liturgical stocking  (Musee National du Moyen Age, 2003).

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